Covered both the inside and outside of the door panels

Sound deadener in all the doors and the floor of the truck. This is just the first one.

Start out building the layers in resin and fiberglass. I did four layers and will do two more once it's out of the truck.

Lay out the glass and make sure it's flat all over

Nice track to run cables in the door sills. Pain in the butt to remove the cap on the track.

Test fit for the front of the box.

Without a bottom, I can save a full inch in height on the box. Notice the 0/1 gauge wire. These pictures are not in order.

Decided to go with a fiberglass bottom to save space

Not enough room for an 8" sub and for the seat to go all the way down. Time to rethink this.

Testing clearance and space needed for the sub

The truck - 2014 Silverado Crewcab Artic White

The mock-up. JL Audio W7AE-3 8" Sub

This page is to show my other hobby, car audio. I'm building a system in my new truck and this is the process that I'm taking. It is under construction at this time and I'll update with pictures as I go along and video when I have something interesting to show. If you have questions or comments, feel free to contact me at  

The System: Keeping the factory installed head unit. My plan is to keep the stock look and feel. The amp is a JL Audio 900/5 HD 5 channel. In order to keep the head unit and run a system, I opted for a Audio Control DQ-61 sound processor. The front door speakers are(for now) Memphis M-Class 15-MCC6A and JL Audio ZR100 tweeters (see below, I had to change them out), the rear doors are Memphis MC6202. The sub is a JL Audio W7AE 8". I'm using KnuKnceptz Krystal OFC RCA cables, 18 and 10 gauge speaker wire and 0/1 OFC power cable. For a nice touch I have tesa tape wrapping all the wires together. All the doors and floor will be covered in 100sq Ft of sound deadener. The amp rack will be cooled with a 12v brushless fan with an automatic thermostat temperature control switch. One of the final touches will be a box that is covered in fiberglass and the amp rack will be lit up with multi-color LED lights on a remote control.

Drivers side tweeter

Testing the layout of the amp and sound processor. More on that later.

The box is done (sort of) and all hooked up. That little 8" hits as hard as two 12's.

Running new speaker wire in this truck is a breeze!

Glovebox removed to run wires wrapped in tesa tape high and tight

The first step in fiberglassing... protection!

Quite a bit of research went into figuring out how to get this massive cable into the cab of the truck. This boot just under the master cylinder was the best choice. There's a 1/2" nipple on it that's perfect once the top is cut off.

Test fit of the sub and starting the calculations for air space

I took an old plastic lid and cut it out to hold the tweeters. It worked perfect

New dash tweeters. I smoked the Memphis ones. Couldn't handle the power

Running speaker wires down the passenger side of the cab

Test fit often

I used an old plastic paint tray for some tweeter mounts to put in the dash

0/1 gauge wire from the battery with an ANL inline fuse holder

The Audio Control bass knob/controller is mounted in the ash tray. I made a spacer for it so the angle would be better.

Fiberglassing the port in place

Cover the area with foil before laying any fiberglass. Coat the foil with car wax to keep it from sticking.

Box mock-up with a 14" long 4" diameter port made out of ABS pipe

Close-up of the boot. It was raining so there was a little dirt on the cable. It's all clean now.

Plenty of room for the sub and amp rack on the left side of the cab

Passenger side tweeter

View of the amp rack. The sound processor is 3/4" thinner than the amp. Since there will be a cover hiding the wires, it was important to have them both level.

With the cable in the cab, there was a perfect route under the steering wheel to run it down. Three 10mm bolts on the box made it possible to move it out of the way just enough.

I still need to hide wires and finish the box. When it's done it'll be painted black